The History Of Engagement Rings
Roman Times
The idea of engagement rings originated in Roman times when a ring would be presented as a pledge of allegiance between families.
In Ancient Rome, women were given rings made of ivory, flint, bone, copper, or iron “to signify a business contract or to affirm mutual love and obedience,”
It wasn’t until 1477 that the very first diamond ring was commissioned by the Archduke Maximilian of Austria for his bride, Mary of Burgundy.
Did you know that wearing rings on the fourth finger of left hand also originated from the same time as Romans believed that a nerve ran directly from the finger to the heart itself.
Medieval & Middle Ages
Posy Rings
Rings bearing a sentimental message or engraved within the shank. Inscriptions in English or French that derive their name from the word “posy” or “poesy” – a derivative of poetry meaning short rhyme.
The rings were popular from the late medieval period onwards and were primarily used to communicate secret messages of love between the giver and the recipient.
The wearing of words against the skin was believed to increase their poignancy.
Classic examples would say ‘As gold is pure, so love it pure’.
Poesy rings were popular between the 15th and 17th centuries in England.
Betrothal & Gimmel Rings
In the 16th and 17th centuries the ‘gimmel’ was a form of popular betrothal ring, comprised of two identical hoops, which fitted together but also could be broken in two and worn by each partner, two halves forming a whole.
The word comes from the Latin meaning ‘twin’. A gimmel ring is a ring that consists of two (or sometimes three) interlocking parts.
During the betrothal period, the bride and groom would wear one part of the ring each and then, during the marriage ceremony, the ring would come together to form a single, more complex ring.
This divided ring was a symbol of the consent of both parties to the marriage and of the two separate lives coming together.
There are many variations of this style of ring, with many hiding messages and symbols related to the couple’s love, passion, and fidelity.
The popularity of gimmel rings was especially high during the 16th and 17th centuries.
A fede ring is a ring in which two hands clasp, as if in friendship, love or betrothal.
The design was used in Ancient Rome, maybe earlier.
It became prominent in the Middle Ages, from the 12th century onward. The name “fede” is from the Italian phrase mani in fede (“hands clasped in faith”).
Fede was also a romantic token of the 18c/19c, this was a ‘hand-in-hand’ ring, which was made up of three separate bands, joined at the back by a small connecting rod.
When closed it shows two connecting hands and when open the hands part to reveal a miniature heart.
Fede rings could also be gimmel rings.
Victorian Era
Engagement rings were still seen as the domain of the upper classes in the Victorian times.
The discovery of diamond mines, combined with the industrial revolution, created a perfect environment for jewellery production.
In 1866, diamonds were found in South Africa. They were identified in 1867, and five years later, the diamond output of mines in South Africa exceeded one million carats per year.
Perhaps because of the culture of marriage in the Victorian times, with dowries a popular way of securing an engagement, simple engagement bands were the most common way to display an engagement.
They were often worn on the right hand before being transferred to the left hand during the marriage ceremony.
Victorian rings were generally yellow or rose gold and often included diamonds.
Rows, halos, and clusters of diamonds became popular during this era.
Amethyst, black glass, diamond, emerald, garnet, jet, opal, onyx, pearl, ruby and tortoise shell were among the most popular gems used in Mid-Victorian jewellerey.
Edwardian Era
Edwardian engagement rings date from 1901 to 1910 and are known for intricate filigree and ultra-feminine lace work.
The dawn of the 20th Century brought immense innovation and diversity to jewelry design.
Edwardian engagement rings evoked that diversity in their delicate and ultra finely detailed settings.
Metalwork in these rings is intricate and light like lace.
White gold and platinum reigned over gold. With new innovations in diamond cutting rounder and more precise faceting was possible.
Old European cut diamonds became the most popular shape, a precursor to the modern round brilliant.
Settings from the Edwardian era tend to be decorative with filigree and millegrain edging.
Art Deco Era
In contrast to the lacy lightness of Edwardian styles, Art Deco was all about bold geometry and repeating patterns.
When people think of the 1920s, they typically envision flappers and the art deco style. That art deco style wasn’t just reserved for architecture but was prominent in jewelry design as well.
Instead of curvy, flowing filigree, Art Deco rings often included metalwork with repeating, sharp angles and tiny beads called milgrain.
This style has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent years.
Step-cut diamonds like emerald and asscher cuts became fashionable, and colored gemstones, especially ruby’s, sapphires, and emeralds, were especially popular.
1930s
The art deco ring style of the ’20s continued to be popular into the mid-1930s.
However, the Great Depression moved brides away from the opulent style of art deco and into less lavish designs.
Thirties engagement rings started focusing on one center stone with a uniquely styled band, typically shaped like a ribbon or a bow.
Solitaire rings and baguette side stones were quite popular, and the typical size of the centre stone grew larger once the Depression ended.
1940s Engagement Rings
In 1939, diamond mining company De Beers started an advertising campaign saying that ‘a diamond is forever’, a campaign slogan that’s still famous to this day.
The campaign worked, and by the early 1940s, engagement rings were leading lines of jewellery in many department stores around the world. The market was buoyant again.
Although diamonds and pearls continued to be popular, coloured gemstones appeared in jewellery more frequently.
Old mine cuts, old European cuts, and rose cuts were the most common cuts for diamonds in this period. Flower motifs were popular and many engagement rings of this period showcase such design
While diamonds and certain metals were in short supply in the early ’40s, their popularity rose again after the war as many returning soldiers were getting married.
1950s
Engagement rings became synonymous with diamonds.
The centre stone of the ring became bigger in the ’50s, and the wedding band was introduced to accompany the engagement ring.
1950s engagement ring features included engravings or braided details in the diamond setting.
1960s
The art deco engagement rings of the ’20s and ’30s made a comeback in the ’60s.
1960s engagement ring features include asscher and emerald-cut stones, platinum and white metals, coloured centre stones instead of diamonds and emerald stones.
1970s
The hippie style of the 1970s influenced jewelry design with more bohemian-looking rings that looked a little softer and more “earthy”, but remaining bold and eye-catching.
People started matching their wedding bands to their engagement rings to create a cohesive set, and emerald-cut center stones were still all the rage.
1970s engagement ring features include yellow or rose gold metals, chunkier rings and stones, atone cuts like emerald, princess, and radiant and iamond clusters and halo styles.
1980s
Princess Diana set the jewellery world on fire when she chose an oval-cut sapphire center stone surrounded by diamonds as her engagement ring from Prince Charles.
Almost overnight, everyone wanted coloured centre stones and jewellers around the world started mass-producing replicas of the popular ring.
1980s engagement ring features include colourful centre stones, cluster-style rings (a holdover from the ’70s), round-cut diamonds, yellow gold bands, and a large centre stone surrounded by a ring of smaller stones.
1990s
1990s engagement rings took a slight turn to classic and simple while still sporting beautiful, uniquely shaped diamonds.
Solitaire engagement rings became popular again, and the marquise-cut diamond was the go-to diamond choice.
1990s engagement ring features include white gold or platinum metals, minimalistic style, marquise-cut center stones and large bold stones with simple bands.
2000s
The ’90s trends of white gold and platinum metals with solitaire diamond stones remained strong in the 2000s.
Three-stone rings also rose in popularity, with either one large centre stone and two smaller side stones or three similarly sized stones.
Halo diamond rings also made a resurgence and were the most popular, along with solitaire rings.
2000s engagement ring features include square-cut diamonds, princess, emerald, and asscher, halo rings, some with double or triple halos and more intricate, flowing ring bands.
2010s
In previous decades many ring types were mass produced to reach a wider market; however, many people opted to create custom rings during the 2010s.
Oval-cut diamonds and pear-shaped stones were also popular styles during this decade.
2010s engagement ring features include thin bands, larger stones, oval or pear-shaped diamonds, rose gold metal, and more “romantic-looking” rings.
Engagement Rings Today
An elongated cushion engagement ring is one of the most popular trends of 2020.
Elongated means the diamonds are longer than they are wide, and this style includes diamond shapes like oval, emerald cut, pear-shaped diamonds, and elongated cushion.
If you’re looking for an engagement ring and would like to browse for inspiration, take a look at our shop page here.