A short history of men’s jewellery
Ola2023-03-18T16:39:49+00:00The Renaissance
You just have to look at the royal portraits from the 16th century to witness the vast amount of wealth on display during the Renaissance. Hans Holbein’s portrait of Henry VIII is a fine example of the way in which jewellery showed off a man’s affluence. Another famous painting, this time of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588, shows the explorer with a huge pearl in his ear.
Wearing one earring was customary in the late 16th century to the end of the 17th century. Pirates also wore earrings but for a different reason; the gold and silver hoops they’re famous for actually served as an insurance policy to make sure they had a proper burial. The metal could be melted and thus provide money for a casket and other funeral necessities. The pirates code of conduct prohibited the other pirates from stealing the earrings instead.
Jewellery techniques started to become a lot more advanced in the 17th century, with gems being cut instead of just being polished. With a focus more on dark clothing, gems had to sparkle and stand out. More gemstones started being used, alongside polished enamel, and jewellery often included bow designs and depictions of the natural world.
In the 18th century, the watch chain was invented to facilitate the change in men’s trousers from voluminous to fitted.
The Industrial Revolution
With the industrial revolution, jewellery became more affordable and accessible to all classes. Guidelines now existed as to how men should wear jewellery, with the emphasis now being on functionality instead of flamboyance. Wristwatches, cufflinks and tie pins became the jewellery du jour and pocket watches, rings and chains were all of a more subtle and classy nature. It wasn’t until the 1960s that men started to experiment with jewellery again, breaking away from jewellery only taking a functional role.
The 21st Century
Nowadays, some celebrities are setting the jewellery trends which were once reserved for royalty.
The rapper Lil Uzi Vert made headlines when he chose to surgically implant a $24 million pink diamond into his forehead. This is definitely not going to be copied by the masses but once again it is an example of how jewelllery is a display of ones wealth and success, as much as it was in the Renaissance.
For the average man, however, antique jewelllery has definitely made a comeback with the hit television series, Peaky Blinders. With a strong focus on antique jewellery through the Edwardian and Art Deco eras, sales of pocket watches and gold signet rings skyrocketed and once again men are becoming more experimental and discerning with jewellery.
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